Under the visionary leadership of Jean Arnault, Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division, La Fabrique du Temps, is embracing a sophisticated approach to haute horlogerie, including strategic partnerships with independent brands outside the LVMH conglomerate. This direction is further emphasized by the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize, which champions independent innovation. Following successful collaborations with Akrivia in 2023 and Kari Voutilainen last year, Louis Vuitton has now joined forces with De Bethune to introduce the LVDB-03 Louis Varius. This exclusive series comprises 12 limited-edition travel watches and a single, intricately handcrafted sympathique clock, merging Louis Vuitton’s vast capabilities with De Bethune’s pioneering design ethos.
Unveiled in Tokyo, the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius exemplifies the extraordinary synergy that arises when a prominent luxury house partners with a specialist independent atelier. For Louis Vuitton, these collaborations enhance its credibility among discerning watch enthusiasts, extending beyond its traditional fashion strongholds. Simultaneously, independent brands gain access to unparalleled resources, enabling them to realize ambitious designs without typical production limitations. This strategic alliance underscores Arnault’s astute appreciation for the nuanced world of high-end watch collecting. The watch, named LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius, is a captivating interpretation of De Bethune’s Starry Varius collection, and is limited to 12 pieces. Two of these watches are offered as a set with the exceptional clock. The LVDB-03 GMT revives the distinctive Tambour case design, measuring 45 mm by 14.05 mm, providing a grand stage for its intricate dial artistry while harmonizing the identities of both brands. The watch features De Bethune’s signature blued titanium for the round case and sculpted, scalloped Taiko lugs in platinum.
The intricate dial of the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius showcases a fusion of design elements from both brands. The rehaut features deep-blue Tambour markings and contemporary numerals against a crisp white backdrop, encircling a recessed 24-hour GMT scale. Further adding to the dial's depth, a 12-hour division in rose gold and blue indicates day and night, alongside a polished, spherical orb marking the second time zone. The central display captures De Bethune’s imaginative deep-blue starry sky, adorned with white gold pins and gold leaf details, where the “LV” initials are subtly formed by golden stars. A small, blued hand indicates the calendar complication, while the hour and minute hands extend gracefully beyond the GMT scale to the outer hour and minute ring. Inside this drum-shaped timepiece lies the manual De Bethune movement, the DB2507LV, featuring 404 components and a 4 Hz frequency. Its design includes spaceship-like De Bethune bridges and a prominent balance wheel. The movement offers a five-day power reserve, a titanium balance wheel, a silicon escapement, and a triple shock-absorbing system. The special “LV” variant of this movement introduces a unique connection to the accompanying clock: all 12 limited-edition watches incorporate the “Sympathique” function. This allows the watch to be placed in a bespoke cradle within the LVDB-003 Sympathique Louis Varius clock, which then precisely adjusts and winds it. The concept of the sympathique clock, first conceived by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795, involved automatically synchronizing a portable pocket watch with a highly accurate master clock. The LVDB-003 Sympathique clock, crafted from titanium, meteorite, and rose gold, is a substantial piece weighing 22 pounds and measuring 310 mm x 266 mm x 260 mm. It embodies both advanced mechanics and artistic expression. Notably, the clock’s mid-section features an animated art piece by Belgian artist François Schuiten, exquisitely engraved by Michèle Rothen. Inspired by early 19th-century dioramas, Schuiten’s work depicts three exploration scenes—a steam train, hot-air balloons over the African savanna, and sherpas ascending mountains—which encircle the mechanism and slowly rotate on hand-engraved 5N rose-gold rings.
Beneath the clock's dome, a designated platform allows the LVDB-03 GMT wristwatch to be precisely seated. This is where the 'Sympathique' mechanism comes into play, enabling the clock to automatically set and wind the wristwatch with remarkable mechanical precision. The watch's time is adjusted via its crown, with an accuracy margin of +/- 7 minutes—a subtle yet significant tribute to centuries of horological mastery. The clock itself is composed of 760 components and operates at a relaxed 2.5 Hz, boasting an impressive 11-day power reserve. It is wound using a titanium key and features a remontoir d’egalité, a constant-force mechanism that ensures consistent energy delivery. Ten of the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius watches are priced at €375,000 (approximately $442,600) each. The remaining two watches are offered as an exclusive set with the monumental LVDB-003 Sympathique Louis Varius clock, priced at €4,000,000 (approximately $4.72 million). These sets are presented in bespoke Louis Vuitton titanium trunks, adorned with corner protectors in De Bethune’s distinctive blue hue. This collaboration, like its predecessors, signifies more than just novelty; it represents a clear strategic intent. By forging alliances with the most esteemed names in independent watchmaking, Louis Vuitton is not merely repositioning itself but actively shaping its future in the world of high horology. The partnership with De Bethune further solidifies this ongoing momentum, demonstrating a commitment to unparalleled craftsmanship and innovative design.